An Epic Road Trip

Any discussion about the ultimate road trip in Australia will eventually include Cape York and the more beers consumed then the more corrugations, the deeper the river crossings, the larger the barramundi and the thicker the bull dust becomes.

But what defines the ultimate road trip and does Cape York really live up to it’s reputation?

There must be a worthy beginning to the trip and to be fair Cape York starts off with a bang. Dive the Great Barrier Reef or hike through the Daintree rainforest before driving up the spectacular Bloomfield Track and you know you have entered a special part of the world.

Take in the pioneering history of Cooktown, connect with different cultures, test your tastebuds, smell new scents, catch a fish for dinner, and witness the raw natural beauty as you head north as far as the road will go.

Escape from your comfort zone, experience novel sleeping arrangements, tackle the off road 4x4 tracks, rejuvenate in the most incredible natural swimming holes under cascading waterfalls and learn to expect the unexpected. And at the end of the day as you sip a beer under the night sky breathe the fresh air of freedom.

By the time you near the northernmost Tip of Australia you realize this is more than a road trip, it has become a pilgrimage to the final destination. The end of this journey is as startling as the beginning and standing next to the most famous sign in Australia inspires a sense of achievement which fuels the bragging stories of the future. 

So are the stories about Cape York all bull? Of course not so head north for the trip of a lifetime and discover for yourself the magic of Cape York Peninsula.

For more travel info on Cape York see www.cooktownandcapeyork.com

Captains, Costumes and Cavalcades

For over fifty years the residents of Cooktown have celebrated the landing of Captain Cook on the banks of the Endeavour River in 1770 with an explosion of festivities on the Queen’s birthday weekend.

For many years the Cooktown Discovery Festival held legendary status as one of Australia’s longest and wildest parties with a re-enactment of Cook’s landing playing second fiddle to the serious business of the drinking games and events organized by the town’s pubs.

Nowadays the Festival is a more family friendly affair and the fully costumed re-enactment has been transformed into a fun performance telling the story of the plight of the HMB Endeavour from both an Aboriginal and European perspective. The warm fuzzy feeling generated from watching the actors, and sitting on the same ground that the first reconciliation between the two cultures took place, resonates throughout the weekend.

Of course it wouldn’t be the same Festival without the weird, wonderful and quirky and the 2012 program of events promises plenty of choice. Billy kart races or cane toad races, a grand parade or an obstacle course, movies in the park or a film festival, poets, thesps and live bands, marines with muskets and exploding cannons, belly dancers or Morris dancers, convicts at large and wanton wenches, an Aboriginal corroboree and fireworks – the list goes on. 

So come and experience a blast from the past at the Cooktown Discovery Festival from June 8- 11, discover your history and live for today.

For the full 2012 program and more info -

http://www.cooktowndiscoveryfestival.com.au/ 

Cooktown and Cape York: An Innocent Assault by a Masked Avenger

Cooktown and Cape York: An Innocent Assault by a Masked Avenger: I was attacked on my walk to work this week. I was aware of my assailant who was masked and proudly strutting as part of a pair of obviou...

An Innocent Assault by a Masked Avenger

I was attacked on my walk to work this week. I was aware of my assailant who was masked and proudly strutting as part of a pair of obviously disturbed youths. I tried to avoid eye contact but this did not help. I changed my direction to avoid their personal space but to no avail – the first attack was direct and purposeful aiming for my head, my innocent but provocative actions had obviously pushed them over the edge.

I should have known better really as there are many similar gangs in Cooktown who defend their space without hesitation, it’s just a natural reaction to being born a masked lapwing (also known as the spur-winged plover). The Guugu Yimithirr people call the spur-wing plover Milgaandurr and it is known as the alarm bird. It is a friendly messenger, bringing tidings of births and deaths within families.

To be fair I reckon he or she was bluffing and it was just a warning attack as the swoop over my head only required an instinctive duck not the embarrassment of a prostration on the ground. As a ground nesting bird they are only protecting their nests and they usually produce two chicks which is when they are at their most aggressive. They can also use cunning diversionary tactics to protect their chicks including defending ‘fake’ nests and somewhat amusing distraction tactics like hopping around on one leg to divert attention away from their nest.

It is easy for the unsuspecting passerby to inadvertently impose on a nest, so if you are walking along or mowing the grass and see an agitated plover try to give them a bit of respect.

And if you do come under attack just hope that no one else is watching you make a spectacle of yourself.

Find out more about the Guugu Yimithirr culture HERE

Wet, Clean and Green!

Wet, Clean and Green!

If you live in the tropics you expect a bit of rainfall at this time of the year and can appreciate the revitalization that the seasonal cycle brings to the environment.

Forgotten flowers reappear like long lost friends, new bird calls add to the morning chorus, the insects seem louder and nature just seems to have an extra spring in it’s step.

The most noticeable aspect is the lush green vegetation sprouting all around which makes you stop and think about the massive diversity of plants living on your doorstep  – easy to take for granted in the dry months. 

The best way to see the weird and wonderful species surrounding us is to take a hike in the rainforest – sure you get wet but wow what an experience at this time of year, you can almost see the growth happening before your eyes and it feels like you can taste the smells - a real assault on the senses.

There’s some great walks around Cooktown including through the Botanic Gardens or head out towards Helenvale, Rossville and Bloomfield for an incredible rainforest experience. Stay at Mungumby Lodge or Lion's Den Hotel in Helenvale or further down the Bloomfield Track near Bloomfield camp at Haley's Cabins.

The waterfalls are also in majestic form at this time of year. We are spoilt for choice with stunning cascades in the vicinity, take a guided tour with the Walker family at Bloomfield Falls, hike up to the remote Home Rule Falls (but be careful when the track is slippery), discover the locals’ favorite at Trevethan Falls or head out to Endeavour Falls on the road to Hope Vale.

So don’t be blue, be green and enjoy the amazing forces of nature in our tropical wonderland.

Have a look at www.cooktownandcapeyork.com for ideas on accommodation, tours and attractions in the Cooktown region

Family Fishing in Cooktown

How long were the school holidays?! Thankfully we were blessed with the most glorious weather in Cooktown so the kids could get outside and expend their endless energy.

Numerous wharfies indicated that the entire population of Cooktown was out on the water which triggered an impressive ‘let’s go fishing’ campaign from my sons. It didn’t really take much to loosen my resolve so I finally caved in and agreed to a fishing trip. Great concept hampered by completely useless knowledge of the sport.

Enter Mollo of Cooktown Dinghy Hire who kindly offered to take us out on one of his family friendly fishing and glass bottom boat trips. Having two energetic boys of his own, Mollo not only knows where to find the fish but also can judge the attention span of the kids so we moved around the harbour whenever attention spans waned stopping at different spots.

Whilst the adults kept a steady flow of baited hooks coming the boys leapt around the boat looking for the perfect spot and ended up pulling in a healthy collection of queenies, garfish, marks, pufferfish, mangrove jack and an excellent cod. Shame about the one that got away – whatever snapped Mollo’s line was probably best not to be on the end of one of the kids lines!

Happy with our catch (all of which was released) we then motored off around the headland to Cherry Tree Bay and Finch Bay and the kids glued their faces to the glass bottom pointing out the corals, fish and even a turtle. 

Satisfying the children on holiday is no easy task so if you want a family friendly fishing trip under expert local guidance this is really pretty hard to beat for a morning’s entertainment.

http://www.cooktownandcapeyork.com/tours/local-tours/cooktowndinghyhire

The (low gear) Road to Heaven

One of the best things about living in Cooktown is the many different environments to explore right on our doorstep and one of these is Mount Dickson.

The road up the escarpment to Alkoomie Station is a 4WD adventure in itself – “I’m too young to die” was the cry from the back seat – but if you think your car may not make it call ahead and the owners will come down and drive you up to the top.

The views from the homestead looking over the Endeavour Valley to Cooktown and the Coral sea are genuinely breathtaking – however playing footy on the edge of the escarpment is not advised as it’s a long way down to fetch the ball.

Alkoomie is a natural playground and hosts Merilyn and Alan personify true Aussie outback hospitality even down to cooking their guests dinner on a campfire under the stars.

With animals strolling near the homestead you are very aware that this is a working cattle station and guests have the option to go out on a cattle muster however our kids contented themselves with patting the horses and tormenting the chickens.

I have a policy of only sitting on a moving object with an engine attached so declined the offer of a horse riding safari and we spent the day on foot exploring the escarpment and swimming under waterfalls in the stunning natural swimming pools.

What a beautiful day – pristine bush, the chatter of birds, butterflies flitting around our heads, wallabies watching us watching them, constant children’s laughter and those incredible views.

The homestead offers comfortable accommodation and has a fully equipped kitchen, and there’s an annexe which can accommodate a gang of kids so this is a great venue to celebrate special occasions with a group of friends. Further along the escarpment are more basic safari tents again with views to die for.

Words cannot describe what the eye can see but if you enjoy the outdoors and want an adventurous getaway with warm outback hospitality I can guarantee this will be a destination that you find hard to leave.

(But when you do drag yourself away make sure you engage low gear!)

http://www.cooktownandcapeyork.com/stay/cooktown/accom/alkoomie